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One dress contest judged by a ury headed by a famous couturier
The Confederation of Designers and Stylists of Ukraine jointly with the French Culture Centre held an international contest, the fourth of its kind, in which each of the fashion designers participating in the contest, showed only one garment on October 3 2003. The venue of the Kryshtalevy Syluet (“Crystal Silhouette”) Contest was the Art Gallery Lavra. The patronage and support were provided by Inna Bohoslovska, head of the State Committee of Ukraine for Regulatory Politics and Entrepreneurship and by the Kiy-Avto Company, the official Renault Dealer in Ukraine. The Kryshtalevy Syluet Contest was staged to coincide with an exhibition of French photo artists, Visions 01, and the Kryshtalevi Nadiyi Show, at which young fashion designers presented their new collections.
The participants of the Kryshtalevy Syluet Contest vied for prizes in two nominations: pret-a-porter deluxe, and avant-garde. The international jury was headed by Vyacheslav Zaytsev, the well-known fashion designer from Moscow, who had come to Kyiv on the invitation of the Confederation of Designers and Stylists of Ukraine; among the members of the jury were: Moritz Rogocky, a Paris Fashion House owner; Francoise de Surmain, the wife of the French Ambassador to Ukraine; Lylane Guillaume, the wife of the culture attache of the French Embassy; Francois Benois, head of the French Culture Centre in Kyiv; popular TV hosts and editors of fashionable magazines and others.
In order to avoid any bias, the names of the designers were not announced when their garments were shown by the models. It was only after the jury had finished their deliberations that the names of the designers were made known both to the jury and the spectators.
The jury deliberated for quite some time before reaching the final decision. Vyacheslav Zaytsev, head of the jury, said that though the jury were more or less unanimous as far as the general assessment of the shown garments was concerned, it proved to be a more difficult task to determine the winners. Zaytsev also said that it was to be regretted that not “a single black skirt of ideal proportions” which “never goes out of fashion” appeared on the catwalk this time; at the same time, it was advisable, in his opinion, to seek inspiration in the Ukrainian national traditions in culture and dress, without “sliding into primitive a la folk-style imitations.” In order to avoid deplorable mistakes, Zaytsev went on to say, it would be worthwhile for designers “to turn to the basics,” to what is called “school which is fundamental in all the arts”; the “unfortunate lack of basic schooling” could be remedied with “master classes conducted for gifted Ukrainian designers at which the fundamental principles of fashion design could be expounded.” Head of the jury called upon the fashion designers “to work for all the people rather than target only the elite,” the latter, in the opinion of the eminent couturier, being the evident trend among the designers of younger generations. Zaytsev concluded with wishing the designers success and invited Oleksandr Vasylyev, a young Ukrainian designer, whose dress presented at the contest he liked in particular, to come to Moscow to go through training at his Fashion Centre for twelve months.
The Kryshtalevy Syluet Contest thus turned out to be a tough test of professionalism rather than an occasion for exchange of self-indulgence and showing off before one another.
In spite of the criticism expressed, awards were won and distributed.
The Kryshtalevy Syluet Grand Prix went to Diana Dorozhkina for her “Khaliotis” (“Sea Shell”) dress.
In the pret-a-porter deluxe nomination:
First place was awarded to Veronika Jan-Via for “Metamorphosis” with training at Moritz Rogocky’s Fashion House in Paris as a prize.
Second place was given to Aina Gas?’s “Apparition from Rue Mare”; as a prize, the Top-Tour Travel Agency will provide a voucher for a tourist trip to Prague, the Czech capital, at any time Ms Gas? find it convenient, with accommodation at a five-star hotel in the centre of the city.
Third place was won by Volodymyr Podolyan for “Harkha” (“Pendant”), with the Delta-Travel Tourist Agency providing a voucher for a tourist trip to Budapest as a prize.
In the avant-garde nomination:
First place was won by Aina Gas?’s “East-West” dress, with a prize being a term of training at Moritz Rogocky’s Fashion House in Paris.
Second place was awarded to Lyukis for “Her Majesty the Woman,” the Top Tour Travel Agency providing a prize (a tourist trip to Prague).
Third place went to Mariya and Ruslan Kostelny for “Oriental Call”, with the Delta-Travel Tourist Agency providing a voucher for a tourist trip to Budapest as a prize.
Oksana Novytska, vice president of the Confederation of Designers and Stylists of Ukraine: “Now, after the contest has been held, the organizers will have to analyze the results. Probably, the principles of the contest and of the selection of participants, the show itself, should be changed somewhat. The next Kryshtalevy Syluet Contest will be the fifth and the experience gained in the previous contests will make it possible for us to raise its level.”
Oksana Fursa, president of the Confederation of Designers and Stylists of Ukraine:
“It’s a privilege for the Confederation to take part in holding a contest which is presided by such a designer as Vyacheslav Zaytsev. He’s been working in fashion design for almost fifty years now, he knows his craft to perfection, and his work is well known both in Russia and abroad. As head of the jury, he gave unprejudiced assessment of what had been shown on the runway, and then he was kind enough to offer to conduct several master classes for those young Ukrainian designers who wanted to listen to the designing wisdom. We have established friendly relations with Mr Zaytsev and I hope our contest will benefit by them in the future.”
Francois Benois: “I’ve liked what I saw and I think that the French Culture Centre will support the development of the contest in the way it can. We are planning to invite prominent French designers to come to Ukraine in the spring of 2004. I won’t say now whom we’ll invite but I believe they’ll cause a sensation here.”
Moritz Rogocky: “I’m glad I’ve come to Ukraine, and I enjoyed what I saw here. Ukraine is a country with a great creative potential and I’m happy that several of Ukrainian fashion designers are coming to Paris to get some training at my fashion house.”
Photos by Heorhy Borysenko[Prev][Contents][Next]